11. The journey is the best — Machu Picchu to the left series

The second day was a big day. While we waited in the tent for our well-deserved dinner, Happy Hour started first. Instead of alcohol and chips, we had coca tea, Colacao, hot chocolate, coffee, herbal tea and popcorn. Becca and Anna helped us to mix chocolate and coffee together to make mocha. Behind a plastic sheet, we can hear popcorn popping from the kitchen on the other side. It was freezing when the sun was out. Everyone was wrapped with all our clothes and scarf. In the complete darkness, each tent lighted like a lantern in the wilderness.

 

The dinner was amazing as usual. Different dishes each time and all traditional Peruvian food. Russell explained each one to us when it’s been presented on the table. Russell was such a cool guy. He was knowledgeable, patient and attentive at the right point.

 

While we were waiting for our desert at last, I was extremely anticipated. Yesterday we had something made from banana and I loved it. I didn’t know what I can have for today. And then to my greatest surprise, I saw a birthday cake with “Happy Birthday Sabrina” on it was brought in front of me! I turned to Russell with utterly unbelievable look in my eyes. I may have briefly mentioned this morning that today happened to be my birthday — August 29. But all I expected was a few greetings. I didn’t know how can anybody pulled out something, like a birthday cake, out of nowhere. The chef was a genius. He made a cake out of jelly. And it was our desert tonight.

 

After this little celebration, Russell led us for star gazing before we went back to our separate tents. There were so many stars shining brightly above us. It felt so peaceful and beautiful. I would appreciate Russell’s explanation much more if it’s not too cold. I can’t stand still and during the whole time I was fighting to concentrate on Russell’s voice.

 

For the coming day, it’s actually pretty chill. We only need to hike for 6 hours before lunch and then can spend the whole afternoon in Wiñay Wayna, which was Russell’s favorite spot in the entire Inca Trail and, according to him, we won’t regret spending the whole afternoon there.

 

Before I started Inca Trail, I did worry if I can finish it. But after I survived Day 2, I was relieved and at ease. Also before I started Inca Trail, I thought what I might do while indulged in this spiritual trek. I thought I will have a lot of quality time to think and I will figure out all the puzzles in my life and in my career, just like all the other enlightening stories I read on the internet. It didn’t happen. I was not sure if it’s because they were just a bunch of posers who faked those romantic stories, or it’s because I didn’t take the time to think — I was talking non-stop with all the people I met on the trail. Never mind.

 

On Day 3 we started while it’s still a bit dark outside. I wore the head-lamp and four layers of clothes. The day lighted up quickly as well as the temperature. Within half an hour, I put back my lamp and scarf.

 

A great portion of Day 3’s trail was still downhill. I was the fasted one in the group. When I was running down the stairs, I caught up with a few Canadians from another group. They were in their 40s and looked very pro. When I reached the foot of the hill, I joined them to sit under the shade while waiting for other members from our own groups. They started to talk about all the amazing restaurants they have visited in Peru. And most of them were in Lima. I myself didn’t plan to stay in Lima at all. I always feel capital cities are boring. I only use them as transfer hubs and never intend to spend time there. Those Canadians looked at me, “You didn’t know Lima has the best collection of restaurants in the entire South America? Some are even among the best in the world. And the price is very reasonable too. ” Well, now I knew it. I will think about it. But I still don’t think I will go to Lima.

 

In a while Anna came down. We two decided to go further as the rest seemed quite far behind. It turned out we arrived one hour earlier at the camp.

 

We sunbathed on the rock till everyone arrived. After we finished lunch, it’s only a little passed 2pm! For the first time in this trek, we had the luxury of lying down in our tents in the daytime to enjoy the sun and the view. It felt strange. We were not in action while the sun was still out. My tent was under a shade and I can see sunshine filtering through the leaves of the trees outside. It was funny that we were never able to enjoy the warm and chill earlier while we hiked so hard on the trail. I felt gratitude about Russell’s plan. At first I had concerns about this inactive afternoon: why not wander around the nearby trails? Right at that moment, I was breathing in one of my most satisfying moments on this trail.

 

“ Hey group,” Russell walked over to our tents, “There is a shower close to this campsite. Help yourself.”

 

What! Chill afternoon under the sun with a shower! I was in heaven! You didn’t know how gross I felt about my hair. I enjoy those multi-day trekkings. They bring me into the real wilderness of the nature. They are not posers and are not easily attainable. Yet there is only one thing that bugs me — no shower. I want to be clean with fresh hair. I want to look good in my photos. Period.

 

I grabbed my shampoo and tower, rushing to the shower, and only found the water was ice cold even outside it was a bit hot under the sun. Frustrated, I gave up the idea of shower. But I still stuck out my head under a tap to wash my hair. I will keep using the baby wraps for the rest of the trek.

 

After cleaning up and resting, we walked to Wiñay Wayna, which was only 20 minutes away from our camp site. We followed a narrow trail winding down and then Wiñay Wayna just revealed itself on our left hand side without warning. It’s a powerful and magical image. The ruins was built into a steep hillside overlooking the Urubamba River. Standing there, you can hear the waterfall in the background and no-named birds flying above and around you. Just as the name implied, which meant “forever young” in the native Andean tongue of Quechua, you did feel eternal at such an ageless site. Sandy made a video of me running down from the top all the way to the very bottom. I looked extremely bubbly and excited in it. How can I not be? This site was not your average pyramid toy. It was grand and magnificent.

 

And yes. This one turned out to be my favorite Inca ruin on Inca Trail too. Machu Picchu can not even make into my top 3 choices. People can take a bus directly to Machu Picchu from Agua Caliente or take a 2-day short hike around Machu Picchu. But they can never see those characteristic Inca ruins on Day 1, Day 2 and Day 3. So if you seek my advice visiting Machu Picchu and yourself are physically capable, I would suggest not taking shortcuts. The journey is the best.

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